My hotel in Shanghai is a beautifully restored art deco building, with lavish appointments including marble windowsills and bench tops, decorative crown mouldings and tasteful decorations.
Entering the hotel, with bell boys making eye contact as they greet you, a subtle floral scent welcomes you as you make your way down to the reception. There is a pink rose theme which delights in unexpected places.
Also unexpected, therefore, is the accent of stale urine which emanates from the toilet cubicle. Closer inspection (not too close!) reveals ancient spray sparkling on the floor and wall tiles.
As days pass, the smell gets worse, until even keeping the grand double doors to the bathroom closed doesn’t even diminish the assault to the nose.
Black mould grows in the dark corners of the shower.
On complaining, I am moved to another room, but I know the housekeeper cursed me, even if I don’t understand the words she used.
Sarah Bonnar 